cuisine: espresso / american

part of town: sw downtown

address: 510 sw 3rd ave., 241-2401.  (3rd and washington)

hours: 6 am-5 pm m-f, 8 am-3 pm Sat.

portlanders love places like the morning star. it's quirky: sandwiches have funny names such as "yes, m' ham" and "loony tuna." it's cool: achingly beautiful arty hipsters work there and play punk rock on the sound system. it's comfy: try to nab the sofa at the end.  but most importantly: the food is amazing. rustic bread, so fresh you leave your fingerprints where you grab, bookends layers of high-quality deli meat and cheese and veggies. "the growler" is $6.75 for a whole (or $5 a half) and almost dares you to finish it, so flush is it with black forest ham, smoked turkey, salami, provolone and assorted veggies. veg-heads can gorge on greek sandwiches layered with feta, cucumbers, red onions, tomato and alfalfa sprouts--or that old standby, peanut butter, this time gussied up with banana, honey and cinnamon. with each sandwich you get a cute little orange wedge to stick in your mouth and real potato chips to crunch on the side. (caryn b. brooks)

read 2003 review